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It was there that their marriage date was officially confirmed and both families met for the first time altogether. I wish I had taken some pictures, but I was too busy eating (and sleeping – I didn’t sleep well on the train). It involved a lot of Puja, or prayer, many different rituals including coconuts, vegetable paste, necklaces, bracelets, and turbans, and a pandit (Hindu priest) with ear hair that was at least four inches long. The bride’s family gives gifts to the groom’s and vice versa, arranged by family position.

I’m going to be doing mostly uninteresting things for the remainder of my time here in Indore (like a final Hindi exam, packing, going to dinner with my counselor), and the AFS disorientation, which I’m sure will be fun, probably won’t be exciting to anyone who hasn’t been in India for 300 days.

We entered the train expecting to go hungry except for some biscuits, but ended up having a delicious meal of paratha and vegetables. The Barat, or wedding parade, was already making its jolly rounds, and everyone was preparing for breakfast, followed quickly by the “engagement ceremony.” I quote the words engagement ceremony because it’s obviously not the same as an engagement in the US (I mean, it happens the same day as the wedding).

In fact, what I would have called the engagement ceremony happened months ago, around Diwali time. Rajasthani Jelebi is my favorite kind of Jelebi because it’s thin and crispy.

To Monica Paul, who did, in fact, leave India roughly a month after arriving but encourages me anyway.

I also would like to apologize to the large group of people whose emails, messages, or calls I have failed to return over these ten months.

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